GRE, GER & COS

Life in Peace Corps is filled with acronyms, and this week was nothing less. Saturday I woke up bright and early to take the GRE at Addis Ababa University. Sunday I participated in the Great Ethiopian Run along with 35,000 other people. And finally the past few days have been spent at one of the finest resorts in Ethiopia at my group’s Close-of-Service conference. A weekend I anticipated and looked forward to as a test of both mind and body followed by a week of relaxing, and almost all went as expected, a rarity here!

This great weekend I had anticipated for several months turned into a weekend I was dreading last week because I felt unprepared.  I had hardly studied for the exam and only ran twice since back at Ethiopian altitude. Test of mind and body? I feared failure at both. All I can say in hindsight is that I finished both, and I’m proud of it! The exam went well, although it will be a while to find out the results, as Ethiopia is one of the few testing centers in the world that still uses paper tests. The run was a bit rough, but I’m grateful for fellow PCV and neighbor Emily who stuck with me the whole time, and proud to say I didn’t walk a step.  That’s a hard thing to accomplish in a crowd of 35,000 people! The run was unlike anything I could quite imagine; a sea of unattractive yellow and green tshirts all heading in the same direction. Being surrounded by a crowd of thousands of Ethiopian is a legitimate nightmare of mine, but thankfully this day the focus was not on me.

The feeling of accomplishment an hour and nineteen minutes later was unmatched. And the feeling of camaraderie with the fellow racers kept all of us smiling for the whole day as we passed each other in the streets.  The scene was chaos, and yet it worked in a uniquely Ethiopian way. A hole in the road big enough to swallow a racer was simply blocked by some kid standing in front of it. The walkers, well, they walked in the middle of the road, of course, and you just had to find a side path to pass them. At one point kids chased after me yelling for me to give them my bottle of water (this happens all the time in Ethiopia, but come on, I am running!). An old lady dressed in traditional clothes decided to cross the road during the run, and no one stopped her. And one of my favorite things I overheard was an Ethiopian couple running and one said to the other, in Amharic, “There is no winner.” Exactly.

The day after the run the 28 volunteers remaining from my group were relaxing at Kuriftu, a fabulous resort an hour south of Addis. I had no complaints as I was having a manicure, pedicure and massage! We all had a wonderful last Peace Corps conference together, learning about how to adjust back to America after life in Ethiopia and spending time all together for the last time on PC’s dime! COSing (Closing Service) happens over a two or three month period, because we all will have medical exams and plenty of administrative paperwork, so only about five volunteers can leave in any given week. We all applied for COS dates and depending on availability were given the date we wanted, or something close to it. Two of my friends, Danielle and Kyle, and I will COS on January 13, 2010, officially two years, one month and eleven days after leaving home.

Volunteers start leaving in just about a week from now, so the goodbyes were definitely becoming reality. After our getaway to Kuriftu, we arrived back in Addis on Thanksgiving Day, and we had planned a special dinner together at the Sheraton buffet! I’m not sure why it took me so long to go eat at the Sheraton buffet, well, maybe because it costs about seven days salary to eat that one meal, but it was worth every dime. I’ve never had sushi at my Thanksgiving dinner before, but I could seriously get use to it.  After we were all stuffed to the brim, we rolled ourselves out of the fancy hotel and back to our semi-regular hot shower hotel and said some heartfelt goodbyes.  It’s hard to believe that I won’t see these people for a really long time, and it’s even harder to imagine trying to recognize all of them with access to hair straightens, real make up and maybe even exposed shoulders! Let the nostalgia begin…

Adventures in Addis

Since arriving in Addis Ababa in mid-February for my group’s Mid-Service Conference, I have yet to go back to Dangila.  A week for the training, a week of traveling in the south (see previous entry) and then I had a few days to kill before some medical appointments and my visit to Group 3’s In-Service Training.  This time spent mainly around Addis has been filled with fun times with friends and delicious food, but more than anything it has made me miss the comforts of my small town.  Spending so much time in Addis though has afforded me the opportunity to know where I’m going, and walk like a local.  I know where all the local minibuses around town are heading, I know the best ferengi restaurants, but I also know some Ethiopian dives to get good injera and wat for less than $1 (which for Addis is quite a claim).  I don’t feel like I have a whole lot to talk about, especially concerning the “Peace Corps experience” since I’ve been attending trainings and traveling so much, but I did realize that I’ve had some fun adventures in Addis that are worth sharing, so here are a few short stories:

Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Ethiopian Dentist
Since we’ve now been at-site for over a year, everyone in my group is required to have a dental cleaning appointment.  I’m not one to fret about going to the dentist, in fact, I usually look forward to the experience, so when I was waiting for my Peace Corps taxi to take me to my appointment, I hadn’t even thought about it all that much.  When I finally arrived, I climbed the stairs to the third floor of a run-down building in the suburbs of Addis and told the front desk that I was there for a cleaning.  After thirty minutes of sitting in a waiting room with Ethiopians who were intently staring at the television playing an Arab Sat soap opera in Arabic (which no one understood, clearly) I was called to come back to see the dentist.

An older Ethiopia man motioned for me to sit down in the dental chair and we chatted for a minute about the other Peace Corps volunteers he had met.  He briefly poked around in my mouth and then said, “we used to be very proud of our teeth,” in a very beat-down voice; He blames the sugar and soda.  He then ushered me to another room, which seemed identical to me, and powered up what appeared to be a metal pick.  The assistant entered the room, handed me a few pieces of toilet paper and tied a dental bib around my neck.  Before the dentist began the cleaning he looked at me questionably, motioned for me to remove my glasses and simply said, “for safety.” I chuckled to myself, followed his instructions, and he began to poke around with this metal water pick.  Every time the pick touched my tooth it made the most horrible sound, and better yet, the pick must have had a leak because water sprayed all over my face.  A-ha! That must be what the toilet paper is for, and the glasses removal!  I sat there choking back my laughter as I realized this is by far the oddest dentist appointment I’ve had to date.


Amharic for Foreigners
My next story occurred on the taxi ride back from the dentist, while I was already in a laughing mood.  The taxi driver, who is used to having Peace Corps volunteers in the car, happily had a conversation with me in half English, half Amharic.  While stopped at one traffic light a man walked between the cars carrying three very random items in his hands which he attempted to sell to the passengers in each car.  He got very excited when he saw me because one of the three items he had was a book titled Amharic for Foreigners.  In English he told me that I must buy this book from him; In Amharic I told him I didn’t want it.  Not fazed by my Amharic response, he continued with his case of trying to make a sale.  I kept answering in Amharic and eventually said, while laughing, “I’m speaking Amharic, so I really don’t need the book!” The driver, also laughing at this point repeats my argument, “Dude! She’s telling you all of this in Amharic, she doesn’t need the book!” Ok, so there isn’t an Amharic word for “dude!” but I imagine that he would have said that if there was a word.  Finally, the hawker said in Amharic, “You speak it completely?” I responded, “Yes, completely!” (a small fib) and he finally walked away. 

In Other News
In a couple days now I have the privilege of returning to Sodere to help for one night with Group 3’s In-Service Training.  I suspect it will be a fun visit, especially after spending today in Addis with Group 3 helping them learn their way around this city.  I’m really fortunate to be surrounded by so many neighboring volunteers, and I’ve enjoyed getting to know their entire group since they arrived in October.

Fasting is still going well.  I’ve only cheated once with an opportunity for some real ice cream, brought to our Mid-Service training.  Otherwise, I’m handling the lack of animal products well.  Recently too I’ve realized the true meaning of fasting, and enjoyed the benefits of sacrificing something physical (food) to move closer to God during this lent period.

Welcome To Dangila

This past month I had the privilege of hosting my mom, dad and brother in Dangila for three days.  When I was planning our Ethiopia-section of their time in Africa, I thought about all the historical places I wanted them to see- Lalibela, Gondar, Bahir Dar.  But when it really came down to booking how many days I wanted to spend in each place, I immediately knew I wanted them to spend the most time in Dangila.  Not only did I want them to experience my home, and way-of-life, but I wanted them to meet all my friends and drink more coffee than they could handle, just as I did when I first arrived!

Our time spent in Lalibela, Gondar, and Bahir Dar was fabulous.  The sites in Ethiopia are spectacular and one-of-a-kind, but my favorite part of having them here was the hospitality received in Dangila.  I knew I had some wonderful friends here, but the warm welcome they gave my family was so special and unrivaled.  The first night in Dangila, we were invited over to Ali and Billie’s house.

They used to live in my compound, but moved out a few months ago into a bigger house nearby.  We all sat in their living room and spoke in broken English, while I translated the rest of the details back and forth.  They served us a plateful of injera and wat; some of the best I’ve had in Ethiopia!  I was a little nervous about having my family taste Ethiopian food in a restaurant the first time, but at least there, you can openly say something doesn’t taste great.  At a friend’s home, it is a bit harder to reject the food!  Luckily, the food was well received by my family.  Thanks for being troopers family.   Then, as we were putting our plates down, satisfied by the delicious food, another round of plates came out!  That’s right, another plateful, but this time it was western food! Spaghetti, tomato sauce (with burbere spices of course) and bread; we all looked at each other with wide eyes.  We graciously accepted the second dinner and followed it by a coffee ceremony, although there was quite a bit of food left over.

The next night we had yet another two-course meal, featuring almost all the same foods! It was amazingly thoughtful how all my Ethiopian friends catered to our needs and welcomed us into their homes.  My favorite part of coming to my town was the night we first arrived, after the first marathon meal, my friends Tigist and Tewelde awaited us back near my house.  They were so excited about meeting my family, and they came bearing gifts.

They had an “Ethiopian” beaded bracelet for each of them, freshly made local bread, local-made potato chips, and Christmas cards for us!  It was the nicest thing.  Then they escorted my family back to their hotel on the main road.

It truly brought tears to my eyes.  The hospitality here and love I receive from all my Ethiopian friends is truly the reason I am still here.  They teach me something new every day about selflessness and generosity.

Meskel Square

Last weekend I was all packed up and ready to leave for about a week to visit the northern part of Ethiopia, Tigray Region.  We left on an 11-hour bus trip to the capital city, Addis Ababa, to begin our journey and we were planning on flying out Sunday morning to Mekele, the capital of the Tigray Region.  I knew Sunday was the Meskel holiday, but I didn’t know that it was celebrated in Addis with a mass gathering in Meskel Square!  Since we were coincidentally there on Saturday afternoon, we decided to brave the crowd and experience Meskel the right way.

Three of us met up with our Ethiopian friend and started walking towards Meskel Square.  The main streets were blocked off and masses of Ethiopians were starting to gather.  It looked like downtown right before a baseball game.  We joined the flow of people and along the walk there was a glimpse of the normally bare Meskel Square that was now overflowing with people.  The Square is about the length of a football field; enclosed on one side by a half-oval of steps where people were crammed into, and open on the other side to the main road which was closed to traffic.  The square (which is actually not square, but a half-oval) and out into the street formed a stage filled with hundreds of performers and priest all dressed in white traditional clothes.

As with most mass-gatherings, it was a bit chaotic, and the only way in was now packed with people.  The crowd around us became more dense as we were being pushed towards the small opening in front of us.  Once through a security check and around a corner we realized that the only way to get into the raised section above us was to scale a 6-foot wall.  It seemed like this was the only option, so while clutching our bags and forming a chain we made our way to the wall and followed the Ethiopians in helping each other over.  At last there was no pushing.

We then followed a natural aisle through the masses of people and found a spot where we could peak over people to see the festivities down below.  Luckily in a crowd of Ethiopians I can actually see over most people!  There was a presentation from the Orthodox Pope, and performers dressed in red, yellow and green formed the shape of the Ethiopian flag.  After about an hour, around dusk, waxed rope used as candles was passed out among the crowd of people and the highlight of the Meskel holiday was about to take place: the bonfire!  In the middle of the square a huge pile of wood was being prepared for burning as the people started to pass their flame from candle-to-candle throughout the mass crowd.  The sky turned dark blue just as the candle light filled the square while groups of Ethiopians continued chanting and dancing.  Just as the whole crowd had received the passing flame, the bonfire was lit and fireworks were shot into the air.  The sky filled with smoke and the thousands of twinkling candles formed a sea of lights.  It was a truly majestic scene.  Not long after the fireworks stopped the crowd disseminated in what seemed like a much easier fashion than the initial wall-climbing fiasco.  It was such a great evening; one of my favorite days in Ethiopia.  I retract my former comment about all Ethiopian holidays seeming the same, because Meskel was different in many ways.  I loved celebrating in Addis, feeling like I was a part of something big and truly experiencing the Ethiopian culture in a new way.

A Little Work and A Little Play

As it turns out, my trip to Addis last week was less exciting than I thought.  It was very Ethiopian, in the sense that nothing much was planned ahead of time, so much of the trip was spent showing up to meet with organizations without appointments.  I think it was a learning experience for my two colleagues and me.  I am very glad I decided to go despite the lack of organization; one more adventure that has made me step outside my comfort-zone.

I arrived back in Dangila just in time for a two-week meeting to start for all government employees.  While I was invited to attend this 14-day Amharic-language meeting, I reasoned my time would be better spent around town.  This past week has made me realize how much I depend on my HAPCO counterparts for translating and preparing projects around town.  Without co-workers to socialize with or an office to sit in, I have spent a lot of time exploring Dangila, like I use to when I first arrived.  I found myself walking out of my house one day with a To-Do List that read: Return movies to video shop, Buy bread, Stop by post office.  I thought to myself, if I close my eyes for a minute I might be able to convince myself that I am about to hop in my car and drive to Blockbuster, Kroger and the post office.

One of my days of exploration included finally renting a VCD from this video shop I often frequent to buy blank CDs.  For only two Birr ($.20) I was able to slip the new movie into my bag and continue my day around town.  Later, as I sat down to watch the video; I realize it is dubbed over in Amharic.  Now, if it was that simple I might have even watched it to learn a word or two, but dubbed is probably too professional of a word to use.  The normal audio was still present, only muffled a bit, and overtop was one man’s voice for all the characters, in rushed and awkward Amharic.  Needless to say, I will just consider that two Birr the cost of learning never to rent a VCD again.

Since a couple projects I’m starting require the assistance of my HAPCO co-workers, I’ve taken this break to spend some quality time focusing on the cultural exchange goals of the Peace Corps.  I have been accepting most invitations to drink coffee, and after a trip to the market Saturday, my friend Tizda is teaching me how to cook a bunch of Ethiopian food!  The better part of one afternoon was also spent trapping a mouse in my house. I'm still not sure why my dog, who loves killing chickens, couldn’t help me with this task. Only three workers are remaining at the health center during this two-week meeting, and lucky for me they are the ART nurses who are my good friends.  I have been visiting the health center just about every day to hangout with them and have them tell me how good my Amharic is getting.  Haha.  Those women are so fun, and quite the ego boost!  I’m very excited about tomorrow afternoon, when we are going to prepare a coffee ceremony at the health center together.

 

I have visited a new café, found a new shortcut to the main road, been to the home of a new neighbor, and met a couple great new friends.  It has been such a fun week in Dangila, and it is now “home” to me more than ever before, especially after arriving back from an exhausting trip to Addis.  While I was skeptical about the amount of work I would accomplish without HAPCO for two weeks, I have realized my ability to get around on my own and love my friends in town dearly.

Getting There Is Half the Battle

This week I have found myself on a four day “business trip” in the capital, Addis Ababa.  Well, I use that term very roughly.  I was invited by the Awi Development Association (Awi is my zone, which is the equivalent of an American county), with whom I’ve been meeting with over the past couple months, to join them on a trip to Addis to meet with potential partner NGOs.  I was starting to think about all the things I could write about this trip I’m on, and decided to first make sure I paint a picture of transportation in Ethiopia before I begin talking about the details of this current adventure.

To travel the 500km from Bahir Dar to Addis Ababa you have about five choices of transportation.  The first is flying.  It takes maybe 45 minutes and Ethiopian Airlines serves the most delicious muffins I’ve tasted in this country, but unless Peace Corps is flying me for a meeting, it is way out of my price range.  The second option is a private car, which is just as impractical as flying considering I don’t know a single person who owns a car.  This leaves us with the only three real options for traveling: a coach bus, a mini-bus, and the big local bus.

A recent arrival in Ethiopia, Selam Bus offers comfortable and roomy seats and even serves you a drink and piece of bread.  In America, these coach buses would still be considered less than ideal, but here they are my number one choice for traveling.  Next is the mini-bus, which is a 12-seater van that often seats up to 24 grown adults.  Typically on the long trips, such as the journey from Bahir Dar to Addis Ababa, they limit it to 14 though.  These mini-buses travel a lot faster than the big buses, which means you could make the trip in just about eight or nine hours.  The mini-bus is just slightly cheaper in price than the Selam Bus, and considering you are putting your life in the hands of driver, swerving around every bend, it is worth the upgrade to Selam.  Then there is the big ‘ol local bus.  Each asymmetrical row seats three on one side of the aisle and two on the other.  The benches are less than comfortable and even sitting with the skinniest Ethiopians you find yourself fighting for ample wiggle-room.  These buses cost about half the price of the Selam Bus though, and therefore still the most popular option for the average Ethiopian.  Although it can take over 12 hours, the slow speed makes it a bit safer, plus you get the added bonus of a priceless adventure, guaranteed.

Considering I was traveling with colleagues, and the association was fronting the costs, of course we took the big slow bus.  It was my first experience traveling local style for the entire 500 kilometers, but there is a first time for everything!  We woke up at 5:00AM making sure we would arrive at the bus station by 5:30AM, and the bus was already filling up quickly.  The three of us grabbed a bench towards the back and settled in for a long trip.  We started puttering down the road by 6:00AM, and the sun started to light up the sky outside my window on the left side.  I managed to get about 30-minutes of sleep but spent a majority of the ride staring at the green landscape and listening to music on my iPod.

We were making great timing, arriving at the Blue Nile Gorge just after 11AM, over halfway to Addis!  There was rumor of a landslide at the gorge, so I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I kept my eyes out for something unusual along the way.  We twisted our way down into the valley, crossed the Blue Nile River and climbed most of the way back up the opposite side.  I started thinking to myself that they must have cleaned up the landslide, and wondered what it had looked like.  Just as that thought was swirling around in my mind we turned the corner to a long line of trucks.  Time ticked past as we waited to move inch by inch further.  It seemed like every time I would get out of the bus to stretch, the line would move a hundred meters forward.  Every now and then four or five trucks or buses would pass us going in the opposite direction on the narrow two-lane road.  All we could see was the face of a cliff on one side of the road and a foggy abyss on the other. After a while of waiting, a couple buses from behind us passed us on the left lane, and not wanting to lose our ground, our bus followed.

An hour after we arrived at the backup we were still stopped, but now both lanes were filled with traffic heading south and I could only imagine what kind of gridlock we were creating.  Finally we found ourselves at the scene of the accident, the landslide itself.  A section of the road, about 100 meters long, on the side of a mountain, had slid about a meter and a half down and over from its original location.  Ramps made out of piles of dirt and gravel were constructed at both ends where the pavement split.  One direction at a time, cars would slowly cross this unstable stretch of road.  It didn’t seem like the section would slide any further, but it was kind of scary to think that could happen in the first place.

One of the craziest parts was there was no official directing traffic.  This landslide happened about a week before, and every day there is utter chaos to cross this section.  Could you imagine in America what would happen if part of a cliff-side road that connected two major cities had a collapse like this?  And what if one side of the traffic decided to fill both lanes of the narrow road?  And no on was at the site instructing the traffic to take turns at even intervals…? It was just one more reminder that I am still in a developing country.

Overall we arrived in Addis Ababa about 12 hours exactly after leaving, not bad considering we were stopped at the landslide for almost two hours.  It was a great experience on the public bus I feel; not nearly as horrible as it could have been.  I will update soon with the happenings of this trip here in Addis.